Elevation: 1848m
Elevation Gain: 1500m
Difficulty: Mostly 2nd class scrambling with some 3rd class scrambling. The danger on this track is the wet bluffs. Take care when working through them as they are very slippery.
Access: Routeburn Shelter Parking Lot
Ocean Peak from the Divide side of the Routeburn Track.
Description:
Ocean peak is an aesthetic peak that sits on the divide. The Routeburn track works around this peak when travelling from the Mackenzie Hut to the Falls Hut. We started from the Routeburn shelter. It’s about 9km from the trailhead to the Falls Hut. Once you pass the Falls Hut you will walk along the track toward Harris Saddle until you cross your second little bridge. From here you will see a basin on the lefthand side. Travel through here is tedious. The easiest route is to bash through thick growth. Mind the spaniards. You work up the left side of the basin until it turns a corner to the right.
Ocean Peak from the Valley of the Trolls. Taken on another trip. The ridge We travelled under the peak and ascended the right hand ridge.
You’ll see the bluffs that you need to work up with the peak sitting just up past them. The route we took to reach the peak was via the lookers right. We worked through wet bluffs until we reached a loose gully on the right side of the main summit. As it was March, from here we had light snow and ice as we travelled around the peak onto the south face. You have to sidle here until you reach the next ridge. It features a short step of 3rd class scrambling. Mainly just be careful as it is possible to slip and there is a very steep drop beneath you. From the ridge, it is an easy climb to the summit.
Me on the summit of Ocean Peak
Descending the Summit. Lake Wilson and the Serpentine Range in the background.
The crux was safely descending the wet bluffs. It is very important to watch your step. I’ve heard from a few people that crampons can actually be quite helpful when travelling across the wet grass. From here it is a very easy descent back to the Routeburn track and back to the car.
